Friday, November 7, 2014

What does the loan process look like to buy a home?

You’re scrolling the online listings, looking for houses, when — boom! — the love of your real estate life pops out from the page. You’ve found the perfect home, with the best location, layout, size, finishes, and price imaginable. You’re ready to buy!
Just one problem: You haven’t started looking for loans yet. And the seller will only accept offers from pre-approved buyers.
“No problem,” you think. “I’ll get to that tomorrow.”
Not so fast.
Getting a loan doesn’t happen overnight. There are key steps that you have to go through, from pre-qualification, to pre-approval, to the mortgage approval itself.
How long should a borrower plan each process to take — and why do they matter? Let’s take a look.
Step 1: Shopping for loans.
You wouldn’t buy a car, furniture, or appliances without shopping around, would you? So you definitely shouldn’t sign up for a 30-year loan without some serious research.
Search for mortgage providers online, or visit your local bank or credit union. Schedule a meeting with a mortgage loan officer, who will pull your credit (more on that below) and give you a reasonable estimate of the interest rate, closing costs and terms you may be able to expect. From there, expand your search to other financial institutions in your community or continue online.
The Fair Isaac Corporation, or FICO, allows people to “rate-shop” for a mortgage without dinging their credit scores. However, you need to do all of your shopping within a 14-day window; if you do, the credit bureaus will regard that first credit pull as a “ding” and ignore the subsequent ones.
Helpful tip: Pay attention to the annual percentage rate (APR), not just the interest rate. The APR covers the “total cost” of borrowing, including loan origination fees and other ancillary costs.
Total Time: 14 days.
Step 2: Get a pre-qualification letter.
Most buyers will require your pre-qualification letter before they’ll even consider your offer — but don’t worry, this step is quick and easy.
Ask any of the lenders with whom you spoke to during your mortgage shopping spree for a pre-qualification letter. These are relatively simple to get, as a “pre-qual” simply gives a rough, unverified estimate of the loan size you may qualify to receive. Most lenders will give you a pre-qualification based on your verbal self-reporting of your income, assets, debts, and down payment size.
Helpful tip: You don’t need to take out a loan from the same lender that gave you a pre-qual letter.
Total Time: 1-3 days (overlapping with Step 1)
Step 3: Get pre-approval.
The pre-approval stage is when lenders verify everything you’ve told them. You’ll need to supply proof of income, proof of assets, proof of employment, records of any debts you hold, and of course identification documents (like your Social Security card) and a credit report (which the lender will run).
If you have a simple situation — e.g. you have stable employment with no debt — this process can be as short as one to two weeks. If you’re self-employed, own several other houses, have had a previous divorce or bankruptcy, have a pending court case or lawsuit against you, are in the U.S. on a temporary visa, or have other complicating factors, the loan officer may require additional documentation, which can extend the process several weeks or months.
Once you’re pre-approved, you’ll receive a conditional letter stating the exact amount of loan for which you’re approved.
Helpful tip: Sellers prefer to work with buyers who have pre-approval letters, rather than pre-qualification letters (all else being equal).
Total Time: 1 week to several months
Step 4: Final loan approval.
Armed with your pre-approval letter, you make an offer on your dream home and it’s accepted. (Hooray!) Next, you’ll need the lender to conduct an appraisal.
In this instance, an “appraisal” is official verification that you’re buying the home at a reasonable market value. It protects the lender from the risk of loaning an unreasonable sum. (For example, lending $300,000 on a house that should be valued at $220,000.)
Scheduling a time for a licensed appraiser to visit the property is frequently the longest part, and may take up to two weeks (depending on availability in your area, as well as the flexibility of the seller). Once the appraiser makes a home visit, the approval (or rejection) comes through within a day or two.
Time: 3 days to 2 or more weeks
The good news? Now that you’ve passed the appraisal process, you’re ready to close on this loan — and this house. Congratulations!
You’re scrolling the online listings, looking for houses, when — boom! — the love of your real estate life pops out from the page. You’ve found the perfect home, with the best location, layout, size, finishes, and price imaginable. You’re ready to buy!
Just one problem: You haven’t started looking for loans yet. And the seller will only accept offers from pre-approved buyers.
“No problem,” you think. “I’ll get to that tomorrow.”
Not so fast.
Getting a loan doesn’t happen overnight. There are key steps that you have to go through, from pre-qualification, to pre-approval, to the mortgage approval itself.
How long should a borrower plan each process to take — and why do they matter? Let’s take a look.
Step 1: Shopping for loans.
You wouldn’t buy a car, furniture, or appliances without shopping around, would you? So you definitely shouldn’t sign up for a 30-year loan without some serious research.
Search for mortgage providers online, or visit your local bank or credit union. Schedule a meeting with a mortgage loan officer, who will pull your credit (more on that below) and give you a reasonable estimate of the interest rate, closing costs and terms you may be able to expect. From there, expand your search to other financial institutions in your community or continue online.
The Fair Isaac Corporation, or FICO, allows people to “rate-shop” for a mortgage without dinging their credit scores. However, you need to do all of your shopping within a 14-day window; if you do, the credit bureaus will regard that first credit pull as a “ding” and ignore the subsequent ones.
Helpful tip: Pay attention to the annual percentage rate (APR), not just the interest rate. The APR covers the “total cost” of borrowing, including loan origination fees and other ancillary costs.
Total Time: 14 days.
Step 2: Get a pre-qualification letter.
Most buyers will require your pre-qualification letter before they’ll even consider your offer — but don’t worry, this step is quick and easy.
Ask any of the lenders with whom you spoke to during your mortgage shopping spree for a pre-qualification letter. These are relatively simple to get, as a “pre-qual” simply gives a rough, unverified estimate of the loan size you may qualify to receive. Most lenders will give you a pre-qualification based on your verbal self-reporting of your income, assets, debts, and down payment size.
Helpful tip: You don’t need to take out a loan from the same lender that gave you a pre-qual letter.
Total Time: 1-3 days (overlapping with Step 1)
Step 3: Get pre-approval.
The pre-approval stage is when lenders verify everything you’ve told them. You’ll need to supply proof of income, proof of assets, proof of employment, records of any debts you hold, and of course identification documents (like your Social Security card) and a credit report (which the lender will run).
If you have a simple situation — e.g. you have stable employment with no debt — this process can be as short as one to two weeks. If you’re self-employed, own several other houses, have had a previous divorce or bankruptcy, have a pending court case or lawsuit against you, are in the U.S. on a temporary visa, or have other complicating factors, the loan officer may require additional documentation, which can extend the process several weeks or months.
Once you’re pre-approved, you’ll receive a conditional letter stating the exact amount of loan for which you’re approved.
Helpful tip: Sellers prefer to work with buyers who have pre-approval letters, rather than pre-qualification letters (all else being equal).
Total Time: 1 week to several months
Step 4: Final loan approval.
Armed with your pre-approval letter, you make an offer on your dream home and it’s accepted. (Hooray!) Next, you’ll need the lender to conduct an appraisal.
In this instance, an “appraisal” is official verification that you’re buying the home at a reasonable market value. It protects the lender from the risk of loaning an unreasonable sum. (For example, lending $300,000 on a house that should be valued at $220,000.)
Scheduling a time for a licensed appraiser to visit the property is frequently the longest part, and may take up to two weeks (depending on availability in your area, as well as the flexibility of the seller). Once the appraiser makes a home visit, the approval (or rejection) comes through within a day or two.
Time: 3 days to 2 or more weeks

The good news? Now that you’ve passed the appraisal process, you’re ready to close on this loan — and this house. Congratulations!

Paula Pant Trulia
October 9th, 2014

Thursday, November 6, 2014

What type of Mortgage is best for you?


Tired of paying rent and ready to become a homeowner? Good news! According to our recent Rent vs Buy report, mortgage payments remain a cheaper option than renting, thanks to low interest rates and fast-rising rents. And, even better news, you’ve taken a step in the right direction when it comes to saving money.
As part of the quarterly report, Trulia Chief Economist Jed Kolko crunched the numbers, finding that buying can be nearly 40% cheaper than renting. But before you start picking out curtains and furniture for that new home, there are some financing decisions that need to be made. Determining what type of mortgage is best for you and your family may seem intimidating, but there is one out there that’s right for you.

We’ve outlined some common scenarios that buyers encounter, and offer a few helpful suggestions to help demystify the different types of mortgages.
I want a low monthly payment. What type of mortgage should I look for?
The standard 20% down, 30-year fixed rate loan will help keep your payment low. For example, if you plunk down 20% — or $50,000 — on a $250,000 property, your monthly payment would be $990. Other mortgage options, while possibly helping you build equity faster, could add more than $450 to your monthly payment on that home.
I don’t have enough money for a 20% down payment. Am I stuck renting forever?
Let’s face it — not all of us have a 20% down payment socked away in the bank. But there are mortgage options that require less cash upfront and can help you become a homeowner.
A 10% down payment loan with private mortgage insurance or a Federal Housing Administration (FHA) loan require less money from the buyer upfront. But it does mean you’ll have a higher loan balance and will be forking over more money each month. It also means you’ll have less equity in the home when you’re ready to sell because you’ve also been paying mortgage insurance premiums.
However, if you can handle the higher monthly payment, but just don’t have the money saved for a large down payment, these options could be right for you.
I’ve got two toddlers and want to pay off my mortgage before they head to college. How can I do that?
A 15-year fixed-rate loan could help you reach that goal. With this type of mortgage you’re paying off your loan principal faster and gaining equity in your home more quickly. On the flip side, you’ll have a much higher monthly payment.
It’s a great way to gain equity. That is, if your budget can handle it. The trade-off is you’ll have less cash on hand for other expenses as they come up. (And with small children, unexpected expenditures are almost a guarantee.)
I’m downsizing to a smaller, less expensive home. Do I still need a mortgage?
Good for you! One of the smartest things you can do is commit to a home that meets (and doesn’t exceed) your needs. You can avoid monthly payments and interest altogether by paying for your home outright. Bonus: you’re building equity as your home’s value increases over time.
I’m not sure how long I’ll live in my current city. Does it still make sense to buy?
How long you stay in a home is an important consideration when deciding to purchase a home and take out a mortgage. As we’ve outlined before, it might be five years before you recoup the initial costs of purchasing a home.
If you’re certain you won’t be staying put much longer than five years, options that get you the most equity in your home — such as a 15-year or 30-year mortgage — are good ways to go.
What else should I be thinking about when considering buying a home and taking out a mortgage?
Most real estate professionals recommend shopping around, obtaining information from several lenders to ensure you’re getting the best price. You can also work with a mortgage broker to find a lender. Securing a loan can take anywhere from a few weeks to a few months, so it pays to do your homework.

Curious where you fit in the mix? Check out our interactive Rent vs. Buy map and find out whether it makes sense to rent or buy a home where you live.


October 16th, 2014
 

Tuesday, November 4, 2014

When It Comes to Home Buying, Location Is King.


Shopping for a home? Stack the deck in your favor by choosing the location best suited to you.
The real estate adage “location, location, location” has been around for decades. Real estate agents, investors and experienced home buyers will tell you that location trumps everything. I always advise clients that you can make changes to a home, but you can’t change the location — short of moving the house.
Some neighborhoods change over time, of course, and most improve rather than getting worse. So as you set out to buy a home, should you look for the best home on the worst block? The worst home on the best block? The best home on the best block? (In real estate, “block” is a loose term for an area or neighborhood.) Here’s what you need to know.
How to buy in a great area at a lower price
A home could be in the best school district in the top neighborhood of any town, but if it’s on a busy street, across from a commercial center, next to a school or near a freeway on or off-ramp, that home’s value will always be significantly less than the values of comparable homes nearby. If you want to be in a great area but don’t want to pay top dollar, buying a home near a slightly undesirable feature could be an option, so long as the broader location is good.
The worst house on the best block: go for it, if you’re willing to work on it
If you have a good location, nobody can take that away from you. Smart real estate investors and developers know that if a home is in a good location, it’s a good investment. In places like San Francisco, it’s not uncommon to see 10 developers make offers on an absolutely ugly, tear-down house simply because of the location. If it’s a good house, there’s a huge upside for the person who renovates it.
For a home buyer who wants to live in the home and isn’t afraid of a little work, this is the best purchase to make. Why? Because once the renovations are done, you’re sitting on equity. The lesson here: Don’t be afraid to buy a home that needs work, particularly if it’s in a prime location.
The best house on the best block: a great choice if you plan to stick around
Buying a fully renovated home in an A+ neighborhood is a safe choice because it will likely hold its value. But it will not have the same upside seen by its fixer-upper neighbor down the street. While there will likely be dozens of buyers lined up to purchase a move-in ready home on a prime block, a home buyer needs to understand that they’re paying top market value for the house.
In this next generation of real estate, the world moves faster. People get job transfers more often, and it’s less common for someone to stay in their home for 30 years. If you pay top dollar for the best house on the best block and then have to sell it within a few years, your investment may not have time to appreciate enough to cover your selling closing costs.
The worst house on the worst block: could be worth the gamble
Though there are no absolutes, you should have second and third thoughts about buying the worst house on the worst block.
Some folks prefer to be off the beaten path or buy in a transitioning neighborhood. And it’s true, areas can change rapidly these days. Once unsafe or out-of-the-way neighborhoods emerge as the next “it” spot. You can’t always predict which neighborhoods will change. And when real estate markets slow down, it’s often these gentrifying areas that feel it first.
If you’re comfortable challenging the status quo of the location game, buy a home that needs some work. As described above, you can build equity after making improvements. That built-in equity, plus the potential upside if and when the neighborhood changes, could equate to a great long-term investment.
The best house on the worst block: proceed with caution
The riskiest real estate move is to buy the absolute best home on the worst block. Paying top dollar for a fully renovated home in a bad location could present serious financial consequences. You may never gain any equity or fully recoup your investment, even after years of living in the home. That’s why this type of purchase is best suited for long-term, experienced investors.

Some markets are stronger than others today, and it’s nearly impossible to give blanket market advice across multiple markets. But these theories hold true across any neighborhood, school district or block no matter the market. If you are a buyer, keep these in mind as you consider the investment side of your purchase.

STORY / BY BRENDON DESIMONE ON 3 NOV 2014